After months of rainy and grey days, we are thrilled to see the sunshine once more (even if it’s just or a day or two here and there) and anticipating even more beautiful weather to come. While the call of the flower garden is strong, don’t forget to give your lawn some much needed TLC this spring as well. Taking time to care for your lawn will set you up for success later in the year. We would like to share a few tips to get your lawn ready for the upcoming season.
Raking
When was the last time you played in a pile of leaves? While this is a great activity for the kids and pups, grass is better off without the leaves. Fallen leaves sitting on the lawn through the winter season can form a dense mat, trapping moisture and smothering the grass beneath. Raking and composting the leaves is a great option or you can shred leaves into smaller pieces and leave them on the lawn, adding organic matter to the lawn and feeding the soil microbes.
Mowing
Ready for a trivia question? How much grass should be remove every time you mow? And the answer is… no more than 1/3 of the grass height!
The principle of mowing is similar to pruning shrubs. As with many garden plants, when you prune, (or mow the grass), the plant becomes bushier and fuller. If you prune too much, (or cut the grass too low), there’s not enough leaves for the plant to keep growing strongly. The lawn can become thin and allow sunlight to reach the soil, creating a pleasant home for unwanted weeds.
For grass in particular, the height of the blades equals the length of the roots, so leaving your grass slightly longer can help maintain a strong root system. However, not mowing often enough can also affect the health of the lawn, as the grass will become tall and lanky. The right height for mowing can vary depending upon the type of grass, time of year, and growing conditions. Just remember that it’s important not to remove more than 1/3 of the leaf surface at any one time. In the growing season, expect to mow every 5-7 days.
Did you know you can leave grass clippings on the lawn? It’s called grasscycling! Cut grass is full of nitrogen and by grasscycling, the clippings quickly break down and return the nutrients to the soil. A few tips for success are to mow when the grass is dry and keep your mower blades sharp.
Weeding
Weeds… Well, it’s part of having a lawn. An effective method to control weeds is removing them by hand and there are many tools to make the work easier. If choosing to treat weeds with an herbicide, whether organic or synthetic, it’s best to spot treat individual weeds instead of spraying the entire lawn. This will ensure the herbicide will affect only the weeds and also that the excess won’t wash away. Note that any bare soil areas in your lawn are open targets for more weeds. That's where the importance of overseeding comes in (see overseeding section below).
Dethatching
Whether your lawn fills the entire backyard or simply a small corner, dethatching is important and helps ensure lush green lawn. Over time, dead roots and debris build up and slowly choke the grass of light, air and water. Removal of thatch is best done in the spring or autumn, with a thatching rake or power rake to remove the debris and allow roots to thrive.
Aerating
The key to a beautiful lawn is the soil. Soil can affect how severely lawns dry out in the summer or whether they drown in the winter. Soil compaction is a common issue and can weaken a lawn to the extent of thinning grass or visible bare patches. Aerating can help combat soil compaction, and by using a core aerator light, water and nutrients to can reach grass roots.
Overseeding
The best months of the year to overseed in the PNW are April, May, and September, as long as we don’t experience any unusual droughts or heavy rainstorms. Overseeding in the spring or fall allows for 3 to 4 months of ideal weather for roots to establish before the transition to the temperature extremes of summer and winter. Soil temperature has a big influence on how well overseeding succeeds since lawn seed will germinate better in warmer rather than cooler soil.
But, how to know which seed to choose?
Custom Shade Lawn Seed is a great option if your lawn is a bit on the shady side. The mix includes grass that will still thrive in shady conditions.
Overseed Mix is a good blend for overseeding patches as well as for new lawns as this blend will fit in beautifully with an existing lawn.
Supreme is a blend that is great for areas with plenty of sun and creates a rich, dark green lawn.
Before overseeding, first rake thatch or debris from the area, then level any dips or hills in the lawn with a good compost or topsoil. It’s easy to scatter lawn seed by hand or by using a manual or power lawn spreader but be careful, as too much seed is not a good thing. Dense patches of seed can create intense competition between new grass seedlings.
After spreading the seed, it’s important to lightly cover the area with topsoil or compost since this helps to hide the seeds from opportunistic crows, squirrels, and mice! Once you’ve finished over-seeding, keep the soil moist so the seeds will germinate and the new grass roots don’t dry out. Once the new grass is established, it’s best to adjust your watering schedule to water deeply and less frequently.
Fertilizing
Knowing when to feed your lawn is important since fertilizer is best applied when the grass is actively growing. The typical growing season for lawns is during the cool months of spring and fall. A slow-release granular fertilizer can promote new leaf and root growth, help crowd out weeds, and replace nutrients lost through leaching and grass clipping removal. Slow-release fertilizers break down their nutrients over a longer period, so you don’t need to fertilize as often. For even coverage of fertilizer, apply the fertilizer in two directions. It’s best to first walk in one direction, then walk perpendicular to the first application to reapply. Depending upon the size of the lawn, fertilizer can be spread by hand or using a manual or power spreader. Always refer to the packaging for specific instructions as to the quantity needed and how often to apply.
Lime
Grasses grow best in soil with a pH of around 6.5. pH is a measure of alkalinity to acidity, on a scale of 1 to 14, with 7.0 considered neutral. Soil pH can vary depending upon the type of soil and it’s helpful to test your pH before applying lime. Soil testing provides a measure of the current pH and can help figure out the lawn’s needs. Lime is a soil amendment that is produced from ground limestone rock. Lime is alkaline and over time will create a more alkaline soil pH, which helps lawns to stay lush and dark green. Spring and fall are generally the best seasons to lime your lawn, since rain shows help slowly break down the lime.
Watering
Keeping your lawn green and healthy during the spring and summer hinges on watering. How often you water can change depending upon the season, weather, and soil conditions. In general, lawns should receive 1 to 1.5 inches of water every week, whether from sprinklers or rainfall. Watering in the early morning can help conserve water and reduce waste from evaporation.
An easy method to determining if parts of your lawn are receiving enough water, is to set out tuna cans or other containers. Let your irrigation system run, then check the water level in the containers. You may find some areas of the lawn are getting enough, too much, or not enough water. If this happens, modify or move the sprinkler around the lawn to ensure the entire area is receiving enough water.
Lawn Substitutes
Sometimes, no matter how much you dethatch, aerate, over-seed. or water the lawn; the grass simply won’t grow well. It’s okay if this happens, as there are some great substitutes to consider. Groundcovers such as Creeping Thyme (Thymus spp.), Blue Star Creeper (Isotoma fluviatilis) for sunny areas, or Periwinkle (Vinca minor) for shade are great lawn alternatives. No mowing needed! Without regular watering in the summer, most laws become dormant and turn brown, but planting with a ground cover means the area will stay green all year, even in the summer! Groundcovers also help keep weeds at bay by growing into a mat and preventing seeds from reaching the soil.
A shady area which seems to grow more moss than grass may be a great location for a new planter bed or maybe a moss garden. Areas that may not be ideal for grass could be a great location for perennials, flowers, and shrubs. Another option to consider a lawn substitute called Envirolawn, which is a blend of perennial grasses and flowers and is a great, low maintenance alternative to a traditional grass lawn. Little to no mowing is needed and the blend remains green, even in the summer. The perennial flowers in the blend, such as English Daisies, provide a source of food for pollinators.
With a bit of care during the spring season, your lawn will be ready to face anything, including this adorable puppy! We are happy to answer questions about lawn care or choosing plants as an alternative. Here’s to happy lawn care and lush, green lawns!